Gum Syrup: The Textural Alchemist of the Cocktail World
Understanding Gum Syrup
Gum syrup, a staple in classic mixology, is a rich simple syrup combined with gum Arabic. Harvested from the Acacia tree primarily in Northeast Africa, gum Arabic is a natural resin that can be used either in its hardened sap form or powdered for ease of dissolution. Its use in cocktails dates back over 150 years, prized for its unique emulsifying properties that ensure a uniform blend of a cocktail's components.
The Texture Maker
The magic of gum syrup lies in its composition of fiber and protein, which act as natural emulsifiers. When added to cocktails like an Old Fashioned or a Daiquiri, it imparts a weighty, silky mouthfeel, elevating the drinking experience.
A Brief History
Jerry Thomas's "The Bartender’s Guide" brought gum syrup into the limelight, advocating for a more scientific approach to cocktail crafting. This led to the near replacement of simple syrup with gum syrup, a trend that echoed through the cocktail world for years.
In the pre-Prohibition era, gum syrup found its way into both alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, from Southern sweet iced tea to Japanese coffee. Its resurgence in contemporary cocktail culture is largely attributed to the growing interest in historical ingredients among mixology enthusiasts.
The Rise and Fall
Gum syrup, originally a bar essential, faced a decline post-Prohibition. Factors like the advent of soda guns, sour mixes, and a shift towards convenience over quality contributed to its fall from favor. Additionally, supply chain disruptions during World War I may have played a role in its decreased availability.
The Original Recipe: A Forgotten Ingredient
Historically, gum syrup included another key ingredient: sweet almonds. This component, prominent in recipes from the 1830s and earlier, was gradually lost over time. By the time of Jerry Thomas and Charles Baker's writings, the almond aspect had disappeared, and eventually, even gum Arabic was omitted in favor of simpler syrups.
Making Gum Syrup Today
Modern interpretations of gum syrup, while more streamlined, strive to recapture the essence of the original. Matthew Rowley's traditional recipe calls for gum Arabic, water, and superfine sugar, emphasizing the importance of a restrained approach to avoid overly slick textures.
At Betony in New York City, their housemade gum syrup is used in various cocktails, including egg white sours and highballs. Their process involves a careful balance of sugar, gum Arabic, and water, ensuring the ideal viscosity for cocktail service.
Gum Syrup Recipe from Betony:
750 grams Sugar
500 grams Gum Arabic
400 grams Water (plus more as needed)
Combine sugar and gum Arabic. Gradually whisk in boiling water, adjusting with more water to achieve the desired consistency. Chill over an ice bath for use.
